Knowmark Travel

Portugal 2007 (Apr): Lisboa

Monday, 2 April 2007

We arrived quite early this morning (about 7am) after an uneventful flight on SATA from Toronto. The broker for our apartment (Mary Goudie) met us at the apartment just after 8:30am. We were able to drop our luggage and have a brief look around, but couldn’t really take ‘possession’ until about noon. Mary showed us a few places of interest in the neighbourhood (Estrela), including a very nice place just up the street (Doce Estrela) where we shared a café.

After Mary took her leave, we spent some time orienting ourselves, then back to the apartment, and finally some lunch at O Lavrador (which is just metres from our door). We had wonderful frango, the famous grilled chicken of Portugal. It was the best that we had ever had. Finally, a late afternoon siesta (which went a long way to sorting out the time difference) and then dinner at (unknown restaurant, which we will update!), sharing a pork dish with mushroom sauce. And, a fairly early night.

The weather today was not great – only 1.5 on the Knowmark Weather Scale. There was rain off and on, plus it was fairly cool.

Waiting for our luggage with two of our travelling companions.

The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the Invasões Francesas. — The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the **Invasões Francesas**.

Tuesday, 3 April 2007

After our first night in Lisboa, we quickly established a routine: out for café (uma bica for Susan – uma bica pingada for Steve) at Doce Estrela; back to the apartment for breakfast (yogurt – fresh fruit – bread); up the hill to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique for various foodstuffs; across the street from the market to a belha d’ouro for another café accompanied by the wonderful pasteis de nata (which are excellent at this pastelaria!).

Today’s major task was to travel (on the excellent transit system in Lisboa) to the Instituto Geográfico do Exército in northeast Lisboa for some maps that we will use later on this trip when we rent a car and leave Lisboa. They were very nice at the Instituto and we bought what looks to be an excellent 1:250,000 scale map of the entire country (in easy-to-use book form).

This pursuit was actually our second map-seeking expedition here. On Monday, while we were waiting for our apartment to be available, we walked to the Instituto Geográfico Português, where we got a few topographical maps (1:50,000 scale) of a couple of the places we’ll be staying later on this visit. Steve (aka map boy) had been corresponding with a very nice man at the IGP (João Carvalho), so we knew they had some maps that we would find useful. And, they look great.

The weather is improving – a solid 2.0 today.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga). — Looking ESE **down** Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga).

These three had a very long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph). — These three had a **very** long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph).

This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the Jardim da Estrela. — This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the **Jardim da Estrela**.

Some of the fish vendors at the Mercado de Campo de Orique.

A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela. — A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over **Calçada da Estrela**.

Susan, reflected in a window across Calçada da Estrela. — Susan, reflected in a window across **Calçada da Estrela**.

Right across the street from our apartment. Very nice people there.

We travelled a long way so Steve could buy some more maps!

Wednesday, 4 April 2007

Slight modification to our morning routine today – instead of foraging for lunch ingredients, we were after things for dinner. As part of our meal planning, we paid a visit to the Garrafeira Campo De Ourique where on Monday we met a nice young man who was born in Toronto!

Lunch was at the nearby O Correio: shrimp omelette for Susan, grilled salmon for Steve. After lunch we spent some more time in the Jardim da Estrela as the afternoon was sunny and warmer. Later we went further north in the city to the Fundaçao Calouste Gulbenkian where there is a very well-thought-of museum; but we were there quite late and just wandered the grounds where we saw many lovely flowers and assorted fauna: a turtle sunning itself, lots of very noisy frogs and some ducks, including some babies.

Dinner was in our own place – take out frango assado from O Lavador (it really is great chicken) with home cooked baked potatoes and green beans accompanied by a nice Ribatejano wine; and of course, later we had port and chocolate!

A very nice 2.0+ on the Knowmark Weather Scale today.

There is a very nice daily market here in the mornings. We get most of our foodstuffs here.

Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of Campo de Ourique. — Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of **Campo de Ourique**.

They make excellent pasteis de nata here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second café, accompanied by the wonderful pasteis. — They make excellent *pasteis de nata* here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second *café*, accompanied by the wonderful *pasteis*.

Garrafeira Campo de Ourique. Inside a very nice wine shop at Rua Tomás de Anuncicão, 29-A.

A common sight in the Jardim de Estrela. — A common sight in the **Jardim de Estrela**.

The dogs were just about as big as the kids "walking" them in the Jardim de Estrela (which is formally known as the Jardim Guerra Junqueiro — The dogs were just about as big as the kids “walking” them in the **Jardim de Estrela** (which is formally known as the **Jardim Guerra Junqueiro**

Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela — Taking the afternoon sun in the **Jardim da Estrela**

We often caught this autocarro (No. 9) to Largo do Rato, where we got on the Metro (Linha Amarela). — We often caught this *autocarro* (No. 9) to **Largo do Rato**, where we got on the Metro (**Linha Amarela**).

A popular spot for people to congregate at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

Thursday, 5 April 2007

Today’s main event (and, we usually only manage to do one thing a day, because we are very slow travellers!) was to have lunch with our Lisboan friend, Helena. We met her last year through The Travelzine and spent a very nice evening with her when we visited Lisboa in May, 2006.

Today we met Helena in Graça for an aperitivo at the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça and then lunch at O Jaime. From the miradouro, we could easily see the Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying.

A lovely day today – 2.5 on our scale.

Inside "a abelha d'ouro". — Inside “a abelha d’ouro”.

This is a view from the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça. The Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner. — This is a view from the miradouro beside the **Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça**. The **Basilica da Estrela** (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner.

Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our apertivos. — Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our *apertivos*.

Friday, 6 April 2007

Today was a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale: a very blue Lisboan sky, lots of sun and very comfortable temperatures. In the morning, we checked out the place where we will pick up our rental car on Sunday then walked most of the way back to our place. After a lovely picnic lunch in our local jardim, we paid a visit to the Jardim Botânico which was quite empty of visitors.

Tonight’s special dinner was at XL, a very good restaurant within walking distance of our apartment, and apparently named after the size of the chef/owner.

Part of the Basilica da Estrela against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky. — Part of the **Basilica da Estrela** against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky.

On the #28 tram in Campo de Ourique. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror. — On the #28 tram in **Campo de Ourique**. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror.

This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (rotunda) on the edge of Jardim da Estrela. We're not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio. — This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (*rotunda*) on the edge of **Jardim da Estrela**. We’re not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio.

We had two great meals here (frango), once for lunch and once para fora (take-out). — We had two great meals here (*frango*), once for lunch and once *para fora* (take-out).

Old friends taking the sun in Jardim da Estrela. — Old friends taking the sun in **Jardim da Estrela**.

This statue of Guerra Junqueiro is in the centre of the Jardim de Estrela. — This statue of **Guerra Junqueiro** is in the centre of the **Jardim de Estrela**.

Finishing lunch in the lovely Jardim da Estrela. — Finishing lunch in the lovely **Jardim da Estrela**.

Susan channelling her inner panda at the Jardim Botánico. — Susan channelling her inner panda at the **Jardim Botánico**.

Official birthday photograph in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. — Official birthday photograph in our apartment in **Estrela** just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. — Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in **Estrela** just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Susan's birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL. — Susan’s birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL.

At XL, after dinner. We had finished a very nice meal and were getting ready to walk back up the hill to our apartment.

Saturday, 7 April 2007

Our last full day in Lisboa found us spending a leisurely day (what else?). We took full advantage of the sunshine (a very nice 2.5 today) to do some laundry. And, then a very interesting, enjoyable experience with fado in the afternoon in Graça.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor). — Looking ESE down **Calçada da Estrela**, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor).

From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window - door - door - window. — From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window – door – door – window.

The eléctrico (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment. — The *eléctrico* (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment.

Weekend in France 2006

📷 Photographs

Friday, 1 September 2006

We arrived in Saint-Pierre shortly after midnight and checked into our accommodation, Résidence Les Iris. We have a very comfortable apartment with a large bedroom containing two beds: one queen, one single. The other main room contains a dining table, desk (with high speed Internet connection), and mini-kitchen with sink, refrigerator, microwave oven, kettle, coffee maker, toaster and two burner stovetop.

Because we came in so late the night before, we had breakfast at Les Iris: yogourt, coffee, and deliciously fresh croissants and pain au chocolat.

We spent most of the day trying not to run into Susan’s parents while doing some exploring and putting in some supplies! Lunch was at the brasserie in l’Hôtel Ile de France – we both had salade d’endive terre et mer (saumon et canard fumé), washed down with a demi pichet du vin rouge and accompanied by very acceptable bread.

Then came the big moment … we arrived at the restaurant La Voilerie at about 7:20pm. Erika, Graham, Murray and Jean were already seated at their table for four … M and J with their backs to the door. We walked up behind them and said “Happy Anniversary … mind if we join you?” Dad said later that he wasn’t surprised by the anniversay wishes but did wonder why perfect strangers would want to join them for dinner!

It was a wonderfully enjoyable evening. We started dinner with feuilleté de chêvre followed by magret de canard avec ses pommes et sauce Calvados for Susan and brochette de crevettes et coquilles St. Jacques avec sauce hollandaise for Steve. This was accompanied by a very nice Bordeaux and followed by a delicious cake which consisted of raspberries, several layers of light pastry and cream.

Everyone had a marvelous time and it was well worth the effort getting there for the occasion!

Saturday, 2 September 2006

We spent the early part of the day with Susan’s parents and their travelling companions (Susan’s sister and her husband – Erika and Graham), before seeing them off on the Atlantic Jet.

Sunday, 3 September 2006

We hiked through some of the lovely Saint-Pierre countryside today, covering the Anse à Henry and the Cap à l’Aigle trails that are to the north and east of the town of Saint-Pierre. It was a beautiful day for hiking – we were on the trail for about five hours.

We walked about 35 minutes from our residence to the trail head and then set out on the well-marked Anse à Henry trail, which runs basically straight north until you run out of land at Grand Colombier. Then we turned east and south along the spectacular Cap à l’Aigle trail (which is poorly marked), as we slowly worked our way back to the town of Saint-Pierre.

Monday, 4 September 2006

After our long hike yesterday, we didn’t do much today. But, that’s how we spend most of our holidays!

Since the Hôtel Ile de France was closed today, we couldn’t get our morning espresso until nearly 10am, which borders on disaster for us! Nonetheless, we finally got our espresso and then purchased a few supplies for a picnic lunch that we had decided to have and eventually walked down toward the harbour. We had planned to walk around to the south side of the harbour for our lunch, but found a nice bench near the Yacht Club and had our lunch there.

Tuesday, 5 September 2006

Our flight to Montreal (on Air Saint-Pierre) didn’t leave until 1:30pm, so we were able to spend some more time wandering around the town of Saint-Pierre. We took a few photographs and then went back to our nice little apartment where we packed a light lunch to eat at the airport (Pointe Blanche) prior to flying out.

The flight actually made a brief (about 15 minutes) re-fuelling stop in Moncton before arriving in Montreal about 3:15pm, local time. An uneventful drive back to Peterborough found us home by 9:30pm.

We’ve had a great time here and would certainly return if the opportunity presents itself.

Portugal 2006: Porto

Tuesday, 30 May 2006

We are reluctantly leaving the Pinhão area today for our last stop in Portugal – five days in Porto. The unseasonably hot weather that we have experienced for the last four days seems to have ‘broken’ – it is a very nice morning here.

After a pleasant drive from Pinhão, we are safely ensconced at the very nice Hotel Eurostars Das Artes in Porto. We had a rather longish orientation walk (about two hours); bought a few supplies; scouted a likely spot for morning café; checked out a couple of restaurants for dinner. We made a good choice for dinner and had a nice meal of frango no churrasco just down the street from our hotel, which is so very convenient!

And, after the few days of uncomfortably hot weather, we had a perfect day (3.0) on the weather front.

Wednesday, 31 May 2006

Today was our first full day in Porto and most of it was spent just wandering around. It’s great to be able to get a lot of walking in again after the heat wave in the Douro. We started by visiting the posto do turismo to buy transit passes and get some general transportation information, as we would like to take a side trip or two while here.

Lunch was our usual picnic in a very lovely park, Palácio de Cristal. The spot we chose had a great view of the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia which is just across the Douro. From where we sat we could see Taylor’s, Dow’s, and Croft. After lunch we wandered around some more. Our tendency to slow travel seems to be improving – we’re getting slower all the time!

Someone else who stayed at the same hotel we are in, and reviewed it for TripAdvisor, mentioned that they had eaten at O Assador Típico and recommended it highly, so that’s where we ate this evening. We were not disappointed. We shared an excellent arroz de marisco washed down with two half bottles of vinho de casa – a vinho verde (mostly consumed by Susan) and a tinto (mostly consumed by Steve). In addition to the wonderful meal, the service was excellent and since the restaurant is very convenient to our hotel, we will eat there again before we leave.

Another absolutely gorgeous day – 3.0 on our scale.

Thursday, 1 June 2006

Several weeks ago we had decided to travel to Braga from Porto by train while we were staying in Porto. Our research had indicated that this would be relatively inexpensive and fairly straightforward. The research was right on both counts.

The express train from Porto only took 45 minutes and went through some interesting countryside. And, the total cost (round trip for two) was 7,60€. Braga itself was somewhat different than we had expected. But, the most important thing was that one of the semi-finals of the UEFA Under21 competition was being held that afternoon (France vs the Netherlands). So, since the price was right, we decided to go to the game! Actually, we could only attend the first half because of connection times back to Porto, but it was scintillating action in the initial 45 minutes, with the Netherlands leading 2-0 at the break. The second Dutch goal, by Klaas Jan Huntelaar, was particularly impressive.

The second half (which happened as we travelled back to Porto) saw France mount a comeback and even the match at 2-2, which forced extra time. But, the Netherlands eventually prevailed 3-2. Great game! And, the stadium is a beautiful facility.

We had a so-so lunch (actually, it was quite boring) in Braga at the Café Vianna prior to the match. And, dinner was at O Assador Típico for the second night running, which was first-rate once again.

Friday, 2 June 2006

Today was a very busy day. We started off by walking down to the closest metro station and taking the subway to the south side of the Douro. Interestingly, just before the bridge across the river, the subway train emerges from underground and becomes a tram. We had noticed previously that the subway trains looked exactly like the trams in Bordeaux and now we know why. The tram crosses on the upper level of the Ponte Don Luiz I which is the most famous bridge of Porto, inaugurated in 1886. There are several interesting bridges crossing the Douro at Porto including the Ponte Maria, designed by Eiffel, and the Ponte Arrábida which is an interesting concrete structure to the west.

After wandering around the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river, we walked back over the bridge and explored the Ribeira area. Behind the colourful buildings right on the river is a maze of twisty little streets, alleys and staircases in which we almost managed to get lost. Eventually working our way out we refreshed ourselves with café and pasteis – we’re going to miss that habit.

Next up was a tram and bus ride out to Foz do Douro which is where the river Douro meets the Atlantic Ocean. By then it was time for lunch and we found a small place where we had a very tasty version of fish (filetes de pescada) and chips, accompanied by the almost inevitable arroz and of course some wine.

After lunch we walked down on the beach to dip our toes in the Atlantic from the eastern side (a first for both of us). The beach looked quite sandy from a distance but proved to be very coarse sand and hard walking (at least for Susan’s tender toes).

Susan decided that she wanted a feed of amêijoas so we had dinner tonight at Gambamar, a marisqueira not too far from the hotel. She had amêijoas á Bulhão Pato which served the purpose nicely while Steve had caldo verde followed by a tortilha de marisco.

Another absolutely gorgeous day – 3.0 on our scale.

Saturday, 3 June 2006

Our last full day in Portugal took us to Parque Serralves, a beautiful converted estate in western Porto (north of Foz). Our Travelzine friend, Helena, had alerted us to a special display of Art Deco furnishings at Casa Serralves (itself an Art Deco structure), which is what drew us to the park in the first place.

Coincidentally, it was Serralves em Festa! this week-end, so admission to everything was free (nice bonus). The Art Deco display was wonderful (we are both fans) and the house was stunning. We had packed our ‘standard’ lunch, so after touring Casa Serralves, we found a spot to picnic and then spent considerable time just strolling through the estate grounds.

For our last dinner here we returned to O Assadoro Típico, where we had another great meal: frango no churrasco for Steve; picanha for Susan. We had tried both dishes previously in Portugal – these were the best versions.

It actually got a little too warm for a while in the afternoon, so only 2.5+ on our scale.

Sunday, 4 June 2006

Today we bid a very fond farewell to Portugal after three wonderful weeks here. Our last morning started, as usual, with café (bica for Susan; pingo for Steve) at Campo Pequeno. As we pay for our café (0,50€) we also purchase two fresh pãozinhos (0,10€ each, which are baked upstairs) that we eat for breakfast in our room along with yogurt and fresh fruit (usually cherries). Total cost for a very yummy breakfast (including coffee): about 1,25€. Our hotel is very nice, but breakfast is not included, and they charge 9,00€. Plus, by going out, we get excellent fresh café, which you seldom find in a hotel.

Speaking of food, may we take the opportunity to recommend the Knowmark Portuguese Travel Diet. Collectively, we lost five pounds (2.2kg) in the last three weeks. See earlier posts for meal ideas and wine choices 🙂