Portugal 2007 (Apr): Lisboa

Monday, 2 April 2007

We arrived quite early this morning (about 7am) after an uneventful flight on SATA from Toronto. The broker for our apartment (Mary Goudie) met us at the apartment just after 8:30am. We were able to drop our luggage and have a brief look around, but couldn’t really take ‘possession’ until about noon. Mary showed us a few places of interest in the neighbourhood (Estrela), including a very nice place just up the street (Doce Estrela) where we shared a café.

After Mary took her leave, we spent some time orienting ourselves, then back to the apartment, and finally some lunch at O Lavrador (which is just metres from our door). We had wonderful frango, the famous grilled chicken of Portugal. It was the best that we had ever had. Finally, a late afternoon siesta (which went a long way to sorting out the time difference) and then dinner at (unknown restaurant, which we will update!), sharing a pork dish with mushroom sauce. And, a fairly early night.

The weather today was not great – only 1.5 on the Knowmark Weather Scale. There was rain off and on, plus it was fairly cool.

Waiting for our luggage with two of our travelling companions.
Waiting for our luggage with two of our travelling companions.

The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the Invasões Francesas.
The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the Invasões Francesas.


Tuesday, 3 April 2007

After our first night in Lisboa, we quickly established a routine: out for café (uma bica for Susan – uma bica pingada for Steve) at Doce Estrela; back to the apartment for breakfast (yogurt – fresh fruit – bread); up the hill to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique for various foodstuffs; across the street from the market to a belha d’ouro for another café accompanied by the wonderful pasteis de nata (which are excellent at this pastelaria!).

Today’s major task was to travel (on the excellent transit system in Lisboa) to the Instituto Geográfico do Exército in northeast Lisboa for some maps that we will use later on this trip when we rent a car and leave Lisboa. They were very nice at the Instituto and we bought what looks to be an excellent 1:250,000 scale map of the entire country (in easy-to-use book form).

This pursuit was actually our second map-seeking expedition here. On Monday, while we were waiting for our apartment to be available, we walked to the Instituto Geográfico Português, where we got a few topographical maps (1:50,000 scale) of a couple of the places we’ll be staying later on this visit. Steve (aka map boy) had been corresponding with a very nice man at the IGP (João Carvalho), so we knew they had some maps that we would find useful. And, they look great.

The weather is improving – a solid 2.0 today.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga).
Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga).

These three had a very long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela.  The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph).
These three had a very long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph).

This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the Jardim da Estrela.
This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the Jardim da Estrela.

Some of the fish vendors at the Mercado de Campo de Orique.
Some of the fish vendors at the Mercado de Campo de Orique.

Spring in the Jardim da Estrela.
Spring in the Jardim da Estrela.

A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela.
A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela.

Susan, reflected in a window across Calçada da Estrela.
Susan, reflected in a window across Calçada da Estrela.

Right across the street from our apartment.  Very nice people there.
Right across the street from our apartment. Very nice people there.

We travelled a long way so Steve could buy some more maps!
We travelled a long way so Steve could buy some more maps!


Wednesday, 4 April 2007

Slight modification to our morning routine today – instead of foraging for lunch ingredients, we were after things for dinner. As part of our meal planning, we paid a visit to the Garrafeira Campo De Ourique where on Monday we met a nice young man who was born in Toronto!

Lunch was at the nearby O Correio: shrimp omelette for Susan, grilled salmon for Steve. After lunch we spent some more time in the Jardim da Estrela as the afternoon was sunny and warmer. Later we went further north in the city to the Fundaçao Calouste Gulbenkian where there is a very well-thought-of museum; but we were there quite late and just wandered the grounds where we saw many lovely flowers and assorted fauna: a turtle sunning itself, lots of very noisy frogs and some ducks, including some babies.

Dinner was in our own place – take out frango assado from O Lavador (it really is great chicken) with home cooked baked potatoes and green beans accompanied by a nice Ribatejano wine; and of course, later we had port and chocolate!

A very nice 2.0+ on the Knowmark Weather Scale today.

There is a very nice daily market here in the mornings.  We get most of our foodstuffs here.
There is a very nice daily market here in the mornings. We get most of our foodstuffs here.

Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of Campo de Ourique.
Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of Campo de Ourique.

They make excellent pasteis de nata here.  So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second café, accompanied by the wonderful pasteis.
They make excellent pasteis de nata here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second café, accompanied by the wonderful pasteis.

Garrafeira Campo de Ourique. Inside a very nice wine shop at Rua Tomás de Anuncicão, 29-A.
Garrafeira Campo de Ourique. Inside a very nice wine shop at Rua Tomás de Anuncicão, 29-A.

We had a very nice lunch here.
We had a very nice lunch here.

A common sight in the Jardim de Estrela.
A common sight in the Jardim de Estrela.

The dogs were just about as big as the kids "walking" them in the Jardim de Estrela (which is formally known as the Jardim Guerra Junqueiro
The dogs were just about as big as the kids “walking” them in the Jardim de Estrela (which is formally known as the Jardim Guerra Junqueiro

Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela
Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela

Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela
Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela

We often caught this autocarro (No. 9) to Largo do Rato, where we got on the Metro (Linha Amarela).
We often caught this autocarro (No. 9) to Largo do Rato, where we got on the Metro (Linha Amarela).

A popular spot for people to congregate at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
A popular spot for people to congregate at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

At the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
At the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.


Thursday, 5 April 2007

Today’s main event (and, we usually only manage to do one thing a day, because we are very slow travellers!) was to have lunch with our Lisboan friend, Helena. We met her last year through The Travelzine and spent a very nice evening with her when we visited Lisboa in May, 2006.

Today we met Helena in Graça for an aperitivo at the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça and then lunch at O Jaime. From the miradouro, we could easily see the Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying.

A lovely day today – 2.5 on our scale.

Inside "a abelha d'ouro".
Inside “a abelha d’ouro”.

This is a view from the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça. The Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner.
This is a view from the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça. The Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner.

Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our apertivos.
Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our apertivos.


Friday, 6 April 2007

Today was a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale: a very blue Lisboan sky, lots of sun and very comfortable temperatures. In the morning, we checked out the place where we will pick up our rental car on Sunday then walked most of the way back to our place. After a lovely picnic lunch in our local jardim, we paid a visit to the Jardim Botânico which was quite empty of visitors.

Tonight’s special dinner was at XL, a very good restaurant within walking distance of our apartment, and apparently named after the size of the chef/owner.

Part of the Basilica da Estrela against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky.
Part of the Basilica da Estrela against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky.

On the #28 tram in Campo de Ourique.  Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror.
On the #28 tram in Campo de Ourique. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror.

In the Saldanha Metro station.
In the Saldanha Metro station.

Praça Marqués de Pombal.
Praça Marqués de Pombal.

This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (rotunda) on the edge of Jardim da Estrela.  We're not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio.
This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (rotunda) on the edge of Jardim da Estrela. We’re not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio.

We had two great meals here (frango), once for lunch and once para fora (take-out).
We had two great meals here (frango), once for lunch and once para fora (take-out).

Old friends taking the sun in Jardim da Estrela.
Old friends taking the sun in Jardim da Estrela.

This statue of Guerra Junqueiro is in the centre of the Jardim de Estrela.
This statue of Guerra Junqueiro is in the centre of the Jardim de Estrela.

Finishing lunch in the lovely Jardim da Estrela.
Finishing lunch in the lovely Jardim da Estrela.

Susan channelling her inner panda at the Jardim Botánico.
Susan channelling her inner panda at the Jardim Botánico.

Official birthday photograph in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL.
Official birthday photograph in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL.
Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Susan's birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL.
Susan’s birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL.

At XL, after dinner. We had finished a very nice meal and were getting ready to walk back up the hill to our apartment.
At XL, after dinner. We had finished a very nice meal and were getting ready to walk back up the hill to our apartment.


Saturday, 7 April 2007

Our last full day in Lisboa found us spending a leisurely day (what else?). We took full advantage of the sunshine (a very nice 2.5 today) to do some laundry. And, then a very interesting, enjoyable experience with fado in the afternoon in Graça.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor).
Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor).

From across the street.  Note the laundrey poking out from the first door.  We had the entire floor: window - door - door - window.
From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window – door – door – window.

Our entrance to the apartment.
Our entrance to the apartment.

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The eléctrico (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment.
The eléctrico (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment.