Today was a travel day as we sadly left Lisboa (which we really like) for our next destination – Terena, in Alentejo, very near the Spanish border. Before we left Lisboa, we walked up the hill to Campo de Ourique for the last time and had café and one last pasteis de nata at a belha d’ouro.
We picked up our rental car near Saldanha about noon and exited Lisboa on the Ponte Vasco da Gama, picked up the N4 and followed it east, nearly all the way to Terena.
And, thanks to a tip from Jeremy (our host at Casa de Terena), we stopped in the small town of Rio de Moinhos for the ninth annual Feira do Queijo. We got to taste (and buy) some very nice queijo and also bought some wine.
The weather was spotty, just rating a 2.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale.
Eléctrico #28 headed for Martim Moniz. Just leaving the station at Basilica da Estrela, heading east toward centro on Calçada da Estrela. Photo taken from our apartment balcony. A nice little Fiat from Avis, arranged through AutoEurope. This was taken at a nice picnic spot on the N-4, not too far from Arraiolos. In S. Tiago Rio de Moinhos. Inside the big tent at Feira do Queijo. Waiting for the music at the Feira do Queijo. The queijo-tasting room. Tuning up. View from Terena. Waiting for dinner at Casa de Terena.
Monday, 9 April 2007
We spent our first full day in this region just orienting ourselves. Mostly we explored to the north and east. We found ourselves in Alandroal for a late lunch at Arco-Íris, a great little restaurant. It is run by Senhor Manel, who was called the “nicest man in Portugal” by our host at Casa de Terena. We would not argue with that assessment! Steve had bife de atum and Susan had costeletas de borrego – everything grilled.
This area is incredible – goats, sheep and the famous porco preto grazing amongst the cork oaks with their keepers nearby.
Roman artefact at the Castelo de Vila Viçosa. Roman artefact at the Castelo de Vila Viçosa. At the Castelo de Vila Viçosa. Steve, with senhor Jorge, our unofficial guide for this morning. What a nice guy! Lovely wisteria that is everywhere here at this time. Looking from the Praça da República. Taking the sun in the Praça da República in Vila Viçosa. Abandoned factory. Terena (upper village). Taken from the castelo. We stayed in the building on the far right. Inside the castelo.
Tuesday, 10 April 2007
We took a long, meandering route (pretty standard) to Monsaraz via Reguengos. After a little shopping in Reguengos, we nipped into Spain(!) on our way to Monsaraz. We only went to Spain because it was just really close. So, we crossed the unattended border at the village of São Leonardo (where the road got noticeably worse as we entered Spain) and then turned around and went back to Portugal.
Monsaraz offers some beautiful panoramic views of the countryside, including a large part of the Rio Guadiana basin formed by the Barragem de Alqueva. Having brought some supplies and bought others, we picnicked at the little deserted church directly across from the main complex at Monsaraz. We had the entire area to ourselves and the light rain stopped and the sun emerged just as we started lunch.
A great dinner in Terena tonight at A Lanterna, cooked by Maria, the owner. Stella – our hostess at Casa de Terena – checked (earlier in the day) to make sure that Maria would be making borrego assado tonight. Since she knew that we were coming, she did and we were not disappointed!
The weather rated a solid 2.0 today, despite the early showers. Monte Agrícola in Hortinhas. A tasca where we had a good dinner the previous evening (Monday, 9 April). While dining we got to see Benfica come from behind at Beira-Mar to earn a point. Looking north from Monsaraz. Clockwise, from the upper left, you can see the villages of Bairrada, Outeiro and Telheiro.On the road, pointing the way to Anta de Santa Luzia, near Rosário. Approaching Anta de Santa Luzia. Anta de Santa Luzia (1). Anta de Santa Luzia (2). Anta de Santa Luzia (3). Anta de Santa Luzia (4). Anta de Santa Luzia (5). Anta de Santa Luzia (6).
Wednesday, 11 April 2007
Évora. Rosário.
Thursday, 12 April 2007
Our last full day in the Terena area found us just puttering about the region, which is pretty standard for us. Our main task was to find the queijaria in the village of Orvalhos. Stella (our charming hostess at Casa de Terena) gave us excellent directions and we were able to buy some of the wonderful queijo de cabra (goat cheese) that we both love. This is standard (picnic) lunch fare for us, which we had today at the foot of an enormous pile of discarded marble (quarried extensively here).
The weather was a solid 2.0 today, despite heavy thunderstorms in the late afternoon and evening. Unfortunately, we have had some rain every day during our time in eastern Alentejo. But the temperatures have been fairly mild and there has also been quite a lot of sunshine. All in all, a mixed bag.
Stella and Steve. The castelo in Terena (background). Casa de Terena is on the left; that is our rental car on the right. Terena.
We arrived quite early this morning (about 7am) after an uneventful flight on SATA from Toronto. The broker for our apartment (Mary Goudie) met us at the apartment just after 8:30am. We were able to drop our luggage and have a brief look around, but couldn’t really take ‘possession’ until about noon. Mary showed us a few places of interest in the neighbourhood (Estrela), including a very nice place just up the street (Doce Estrela) where we shared a café.
After Mary took her leave, we spent some time orienting ourselves, then back to the apartment, and finally some lunch at O Lavrador (which is just metres from our door). We had wonderful frango, the famous grilled chicken of Portugal. It was the best that we had ever had. Finally, a late afternoon siesta (which went a long way to sorting out the time difference) and then dinner at (unknown restaurant, which we will update!), sharing a pork dish with mushroom sauce. And, a fairly early night.
The weather today was not great – only 1.5 on the Knowmark Weather Scale. There was rain off and on, plus it was fairly cool.
Waiting for our luggage with two of our travelling companions. The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the Invasões Francesas.
Tuesday, 3 April 2007
After our first night in Lisboa, we quickly established a routine: out for café (uma bica for Susan – uma bica pingada for Steve) at Doce Estrela; back to the apartment for breakfast (yogurt – fresh fruit – bread); up the hill to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique for various foodstuffs; across the street from the market to a belha d’ouro for another café accompanied by the wonderful pasteis de nata (which are excellent at this pastelaria!).
Today’s major task was to travel (on the excellent transit system in Lisboa) to the Instituto Geográfico do Exército in northeast Lisboa for some maps that we will use later on this trip when we rent a car and leave Lisboa. They were very nice at the Instituto and we bought what looks to be an excellent 1:250,000 scale map of the entire country (in easy-to-use book form).
This pursuit was actually our second map-seeking expedition here. On Monday, while we were waiting for our apartment to be available, we walked to the Instituto Geográfico Português, where we got a few topographical maps (1:50,000 scale) of a couple of the places we’ll be staying later on this visit. Steve (aka map boy) had been corresponding with a very nice man at the IGP (João Carvalho), so we knew they had some maps that we would find useful. And, they look great.
The weather is improving – a solid 2.0 today.
Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga). These three had a very long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph). This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the Jardim da Estrela. Some of the fish vendors at the Mercado de Campo de Orique. Spring in the Jardim da Estrela. A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela. Susan, reflected in a window across Calçada da Estrela. Right across the street from our apartment. Very nice people there. We travelled a long way so Steve could buy some more maps!
Wednesday, 4 April 2007
Slight modification to our morning routine today – instead of foraging for lunch ingredients, we were after things for dinner. As part of our meal planning, we paid a visit to the Garrafeira Campo De Ourique where on Monday we met a nice young man who was born in Toronto!
Lunch was at the nearby O Correio: shrimp omelette for Susan, grilled salmon for Steve. After lunch we spent some more time in the Jardim da Estrela as the afternoon was sunny and warmer. Later we went further north in the city to the Fundaçao Calouste Gulbenkian where there is a very well-thought-of museum; but we were there quite late and just wandered the grounds where we saw many lovely flowers and assorted fauna: a turtle sunning itself, lots of very noisy frogs and some ducks, including some babies.
Dinner was in our own place – take out frango assado from O Lavador (it really is great chicken) with home cooked baked potatoes and green beans accompanied by a nice Ribatejano wine; and of course, later we had port and chocolate!
A very nice 2.0+ on the Knowmark Weather Scale today. There is a very nice daily market here in the mornings. We get most of our foodstuffs here. Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of Campo de Ourique. They make excellent pasteis de nata here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second café, accompanied by the wonderful pasteis. Garrafeira Campo de Ourique. Inside a very nice wine shop at Rua Tomás de Anuncicão, 29-A. We had a very nice lunch here. A common sight in the Jardim de Estrela. The dogs were just about as big as the kids “walking” them in the Jardim de Estrela (which is formally known as the Jardim Guerra Junqueiro Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela We often caught this autocarro (No. 9) to Largo do Rato, where we got on the Metro (Linha Amarela). A popular spot for people to congregate at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian. At the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.
Thursday, 5 April 2007
Today’s main event (and, we usually only manage to do one thing a day, because we are very slow travellers!) was to have lunch with our Lisboan friend, Helena. We met her last year through The Travelzine and spent a very nice evening with her when we visited Lisboa in May, 2006.
Today we met Helena in Graça for an aperitivo at the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça and then lunch at O Jaime. From the miradouro, we could easily see the Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying.
A lovely day today – 2.5 on our scale. Inside “a abelha d’ouro”. This is a view from the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça. The Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner. Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our apertivos.
Friday, 6 April 2007
Today was a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale: a very blue Lisboan sky, lots of sun and very comfortable temperatures. In the morning, we checked out the place where we will pick up our rental car on Sunday then walked most of the way back to our place. After a lovely picnic lunch in our local jardim, we paid a visit to the Jardim Botânico which was quite empty of visitors.
Tonight’s special dinner was at XL, a very good restaurant within walking distance of our apartment, and apparently named after the size of the chef/owner. Part of the Basilica da Estrela against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky. On the #28 tram in Campo de Ourique. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror. In the Saldanha Metro station. Praça Marqués de Pombal. This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (rotunda) on the edge of Jardim da Estrela. We’re not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio. We had two great meals here (frango), once for lunch and once para fora (take-out). Old friends taking the sun in Jardim da Estrela. This statue of Guerra Junqueiro is in the centre of the Jardim de Estrela. Finishing lunch in the lovely Jardim da Estrela. Susan channelling her inner panda at the Jardim Botánico. Official birthday photograph in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. Susan’s birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL. At XL, after dinner. We had finished a very nice meal and were getting ready to walk back up the hill to our apartment.
Saturday, 7 April 2007
Our last full day in Lisboa found us spending a leisurely day (what else?). We took full advantage of the sunshine (a very nice 2.5 today) to do some laundry. And, then a very interesting, enjoyable experience with fado in the afternoon in Graça.
Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor). From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window – door – door – window. Our entrance to the apartment. The eléctrico (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment.
We arrived in Saint-Pierre shortly after midnight and checked into our accommodation, Résidence Les Iris. We have a very comfortable apartment with a large bedroom containing two beds: one queen, one single. The other main room contains a dining table, desk (with high speed Internet connection), and mini-kitchen with sink, refrigerator, microwave oven, kettle, coffee maker, toaster and two burner stovetop.
Because we came in so late the night before, we had breakfast at Les Iris: yogourt, coffee, and deliciously fresh croissants and pain au chocolat.
We spent most of the day trying not to run into Susan’s parents while doing some exploring and putting in some supplies! Lunch was at the brasserie in l’Hôtel Ile de France – we both had salade d’endive terre et mer (saumon et canard fumé), washed down with a demi pichet du vin rouge and accompanied by very acceptable bread.
Then came the big moment … we arrived at the restaurant La Voilerie at about 7:20pm. Erika, Graham, Murray and Jean were already seated at their table for four … M and J with their backs to the door. We walked up behind them and said “Happy Anniversary … mind if we join you?” Dad said later that he wasn’t surprised by the anniversay wishes but did wonder why perfect strangers would want to join them for dinner!
It was a wonderfully enjoyable evening. We started dinner with feuilleté de chêvre followed by magret de canard avec ses pommes et sauce Calvados for Susan and brochette de crevettes et coquilles St. Jacques avec sauce hollandaise for Steve. This was accompanied by a very nice Bordeaux and followed by a delicious cake which consisted of raspberries, several layers of light pastry and cream.
Everyone had a marvelous time and it was well worth the effort getting there for the occasion!
Saturday, 2 September 2006
We spent the early part of the day with Susan’s parents and their travelling companions (Susan’s sister and her husband – Erika and Graham), before seeing them off on the Atlantic Jet.
Sunday, 3 September 2006
We hiked through some of the lovely Saint-Pierre countryside today, covering the Anse à Henry and the Cap à l’Aigle trails that are to the north and east of the town of Saint-Pierre. It was a beautiful day for hiking – we were on the trail for about five hours.
We walked about 35 minutes from our residence to the trail head and then set out on the well-marked Anse à Henry trail, which runs basically straight north until you run out of land at Grand Colombier. Then we turned east and south along the spectacular Cap à l’Aigle trail (which is poorly marked), as we slowly worked our way back to the town of Saint-Pierre.
Monday, 4 September 2006
After our long hike yesterday, we didn’t do much today. But, that’s how we spend most of our holidays!
Since the Hôtel Ile de France was closed today, we couldn’t get our morning espresso until nearly 10am, which borders on disaster for us! Nonetheless, we finally got our espresso and then purchased a few supplies for a picnic lunch that we had decided to have and eventually walked down toward the harbour. We had planned to walk around to the south side of the harbour for our lunch, but found a nice bench near the Yacht Club and had our lunch there.
Tuesday, 5 September 2006
Our flight to Montreal (on Air Saint-Pierre) didn’t leave until 1:30pm, so we were able to spend some more time wandering around the town of Saint-Pierre. We took a few photographs and then went back to our nice little apartment where we packed a light lunch to eat at the airport (Pointe Blanche) prior to flying out.
The flight actually made a brief (about 15 minutes) re-fuelling stop in Moncton before arriving in Montreal about 3:15pm, local time. An uneventful drive back to Peterborough found us home by 9:30pm.
We’ve had a great time here and would certainly return if the opportunity presents itself.
![A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela.](http://knowmark.ca/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/447613184_28e17bb0b2_o-1024x681.jpg)
