Category: Portugal

Portugal 2007 (Apr): Nazaré

Sunday, 15 April 2007

Another gorgeous day (a perfect 3.0) as we packed up after a short, delightful stay at Quinta de Coalhos. We were in no hurry to leave and spent a little time with our hosts (senhor José and senhora Isabel) getting some advice and direction about where to eat and what to see near our final destination, which is just outside the village of Pederneira, high on a cliff above Nazaré, on o oceano Atlântico.

We had arranged to have lunch at Remédio D’Alma, since our dinner there on Friday night (13 April) was such a delight. This is quite a testimonial, since our original plans called for us to have lunch at A Lúria, where we had such a great meal last year. Lunch did not disappoint – Steve had a absolutely wonderful arroz de pato, while Susan had lombo assado recheado com ameixa. A second memorable meal at Remédio D’Alma, accompanied by a nice 2004 Paço de Aviz (Trincadeira).

We then sped down the A1 (unusual for us, but we had some time constraints) in what turned out to be a fruitless search for the Castro de Vila Nova de São Pedro, the site of a chalcolithic ruin. The area was beautiful (once we got off the A1), but the Castro was not evident, at least to us!

The remainder of the day found us slowly wending our way north and west until we finally arrived at Quinta das Rosas, where we had a light dinner on our balcony overlooking the ocean. Not too hard to take!

Constância. On our way from Quinta de Coalhos to Quinta das Rosas. — Constância. On our way from **Quinta de Coalhos** to **Quinta das Rosas**.

Monday, 16 April 2007

We have some rather nice views from our balcony overlooking Nazaré and o oceano Atlântico. — We have some rather nice views from our balcony overlooking **Nazaré** and **o oceano Atlântico**.

The mercado in Alcobaça. Note Susan in the background (red top).

Fishing boat just off the beach at Nazaré. Not the greatest photograph, but a memory worth preserving. Taken from our balcony at Quinta das Rosas, just south of Pederneira. — Fishing boat just off the beach at Nazaré. Not the greatest photograph, but a memory worth preserving. Taken from our balcony at **Quinta das Rosas**, just south of Pederneira.

Tuesday, 17 April 2007

We actually visited two beaches, and both before lunch! We are staying just outside Pederneira, which is on a cliff high above Nazaré – a well-known beach town. The beach is stunning there, and we rolled up our trousers and got our feet wet as we strolled up and down (nearly alone) as the surf pounded. We then drove a little south to Salgado, where we repeated our earlier activities (rolled up our trousers, strolled a bit). At Salgado, there were a few fishermen with long poles stuck in the sand which they would occasionally cast into the surf. This beach is basically an extension of the one in Nazaré (several kilometres south), but physically it is different. And, much less visited.

We were also told that the beach at Nazaré had no undertow (therefore quite safe for swimming, etc.), while the one at Salgado is more dangerous in that regard. The surf seemed much the same at both beaches, so this was a surprise. Both were well worth visiting, even if you are not ‘beach bunnies’ (which we are not).

We then returned to Nazaré for lunch at Sete Saias, which had been recommended to us by senhor José at Quinta de Coalhos (our previous stay). It did not disappoint, and we enjoyed caldeirada and arroz de tamboril. Both were delicious. And, we found that the owner of Sete Saias was related (by marriage) to our hostess at Quinta Das Rosas, where we are staying!

We did some other stuff, but time is running out for the author – we’ll finish this later …

Weather-wise, it was another great day (a perfect 3.0) in this part of Portugal.

The sunrise is not as stunning as the sunset(s), but they're pretty nice! — The sunrise is not as stunning as the sunset(s), but they’re pretty nice!

Part of the grounds at Quinta das Rosas.

Wednesday, 18 April 2007

Allegro Santorini, the 'watch donkey' (who brays every time someone arrives or departs) at Quinta das Rosas. — Allegro Santorini, the ‘watch donkey’ (who brays every time someone arrives or departs) at **Quinta das Rosas**.

We spent a couple of hours hiking (and climbing!) today. The final 300 metres (nearly straight up) was well worth it, as the views of the area are tremendous.

Thursday, 19 April 2007

Friday, 20 April 2007

We leave Quinta das Rosas (a wonderful place – more later) for the Lisboa airport this morning, where we catch a two-stage flight to Toronto. Our second trip to Portugal (our first was last May) has helped us determine that we will return to this ‘gentle country’ (as Anna, our delightful host here, characterized Portugal) soon.

Bom dia!

Portugal 2007 (Apr): Abrantes

Friday, 13 April 2007

Friday the 13th is a travel day as we leave the Alentejo region for Ribatejo. After saying our farewells to Stella at Casa de Terena, we went to Orvalhos to buy some more queijo and pão and have our morning café. The couple that runs the Mini Mercado (for our bread) and the attached café were especially nice.

We then drove leisurely northwards through Portalegre and stopped for a picnic lunch at a lovely miradouro high in the Serra de São Mamede. While it was a bit hazy, the views were still gorgeous. Then, into Castelo de Vide, which is a very nice town. We wandered around for a while and had our afternoon bicas. It turned out to be a very nice day for driving, with only some occasional clouds – 2.5 on our scale.

Dropping out of the Serra, we slowly drove west, arriving at Quinta de Coalhos in the late afternoon, where we were familiarly greeted by senhor José and senhora Isabel, our gracious hosts. We had stayed here last year for three nights and very much enjoyed their hospitality and the local cuisine. And, this stay (only two nights) started out very well on the eating front with an excellent meal in Constância at the Remédio D’Alma. Senhor Carlos was our host and treated us very well. We liked it so much that we have arranged to have Sunday lunch there as we leave Coalhos for our final destination (Nazaré).

Today's picnic spot. A lovely spot with incredible views high in the Serra de São Mamede. And, we had it all to ourselves. — Today’s picnic spot. A lovely spot with incredible views high in the Serra de São Mamede. And, we had it all to ourselves.

Castelo de Vide. A lovely town in the Serra da São Mamede. Looking north. — Castelo de Vide. A lovely town in the **Serra da São Mamede**. Looking north.

Saturday, 14 April 2007

Late night port in one of the common areas at Quinta de Coalhos. — Late night port in one of the common areas at **Quinta de Coalhos**.

Portugal 2007 (Apr): Terena

Sunday, 8 April 2007

Today was a travel day as we sadly left Lisboa (which we really like) for our next destination – Terena, in Alentejo, very near the Spanish border. Before we left Lisboa, we walked up the hill to Campo de Ourique for the last time and had café and one last pasteis de nata at a belha d’ouro.

We picked up our rental car near Saldanha about noon and exited Lisboa on the Ponte Vasco da Gama, picked up the N4 and followed it east, nearly all the way to Terena.

And, thanks to a tip from Jeremy (our host at Casa de Terena), we stopped in the small town of Rio de Moinhos for the ninth annual Feira do Queijo. We got to taste (and buy) some very nice queijo and also bought some wine.

The weather was spotty, just rating a 2.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale.

Eléctrico #28 headed for Martim Moniz. Just leaving the station at Basilica da Estrela, heading east toward centro on Calçada da Estrela. Photo taken from our apartment balcony. — Eléctrico #28 headed for Martim Moniz. Just leaving the station at **Basilica da Estrela**, heading east toward *centro* on **Calçada da Estrela**. Photo taken from our apartment balcony.

A nice little Fiat from Avis, arranged through AutoEurope. This was taken at a nice picnic spot on the N-4, not too far from Arraiolos. — A nice little Fiat from Avis, arranged through AutoEurope. This was taken at a nice picnic spot on the N-4, not too far from **Arraiolos**.

In S. Tiago Rio de Moinhos. — In **S. Tiago Rio de Moinhos**.

Waiting for the music at the Feira do Queijo.

The queijo-tasting room. — The *queijo*-tasting room.

Waiting for dinner at Casa de Terena. — Waiting for dinner at **Casa de Terena**.

Monday, 9 April 2007

We spent our first full day in this region just orienting ourselves. Mostly we explored to the north and east. We found ourselves in Alandroal for a late lunch at Arco-Íris, a great little restaurant. It is run by Senhor Manel, who was called the “nicest man in Portugal” by our host at Casa de Terena. We would not argue with that assessment! Steve had bife de atum and Susan had costeletas de borrego – everything grilled.

This area is incredible – goats, sheep and the famous porco preto grazing amongst the cork oaks with their keepers nearby.

Roman artefact at the Castelo de Vila Viçosa.

Steve, with senhor Jorge, our unofficial guide for this morning. What a nice guy!

Lovely wisteria that is everywhere here at this time.

Taking the sun in the Praça da República in Vila Viçosa. — Taking the sun in the Praça da República in **Vila Viçosa**.

Terena (upper village). Taken from the castelo. We stayed in the building on the far right. — Terena (upper village). Taken from the *castelo*. We stayed in the building on the far right.

Tuesday, 10 April 2007

We took a long, meandering route (pretty standard) to Monsaraz via Reguengos. After a little shopping in Reguengos, we nipped into Spain(!) on our way to Monsaraz. We only went to Spain because it was just really close. So, we crossed the unattended border at the village of São Leonardo (where the road got noticeably worse as we entered Spain) and then turned around and went back to Portugal.

Monsaraz offers some beautiful panoramic views of the countryside, including a large part of the Rio Guadiana basin formed by the Barragem de Alqueva. Having brought some supplies and bought others, we picnicked at the little deserted church directly across from the main complex at Monsaraz. We had the entire area to ourselves and the light rain stopped and the sun emerged just as we started lunch.

A great dinner in Terena tonight at A Lanterna, cooked by Maria, the owner. Stella – our hostess at Casa de Terena – checked (earlier in the day) to make sure that Maria would be making borrego assado tonight. Since she knew that we were coming, she did and we were not disappointed!

The weather rated a solid 2.0 today, despite the early showers.

Monte Agrícola in Hortinhas. A tasca where we had a good dinner the previous evening (Monday, 9 April). While dining we got to see Benfica come from behind at Beira-Mar to earn a point. — Monte Agrícola in Hortinhas. A *tasca* where we had a good dinner the previous evening (Monday, 9 April). While dining we got to see Benfica come from behind at Beira-Mar to earn a point.

Looking north from Monsaraz. Clockwise, from the upper left, you can see the villages of Bairrada, Outeiro and Telheiro. — Looking north from Monsaraz. Clockwise, from the upper left, you can see the villages of **Bairrada**, **Outeiro** and **Telheiro**.

On the road, pointing the way to Anta de Santa Luzia, near Rosário. — On the road, pointing the way to **Anta de Santa Luzia**, near **Rosário**.

Wednesday, 11 April 2007

Thursday, 12 April 2007

Our last full day in the Terena area found us just puttering about the region, which is pretty standard for us. Our main task was to find the queijaria in the village of Orvalhos. Stella (our charming hostess at Casa de Terena) gave us excellent directions and we were able to buy some of the wonderful queijo de cabra (goat cheese) that we both love. This is standard (picnic) lunch fare for us, which we had today at the foot of an enormous pile of discarded marble (quarried extensively here).

The weather was a solid 2.0 today, despite heavy thunderstorms in the late afternoon and evening. Unfortunately, we have had some rain every day during our time in eastern Alentejo. But the temperatures have been fairly mild and there has also been quite a lot of sunshine. All in all, a mixed bag.

The castelo in Terena (background). Casa de Terena is on the left; that is our rental car on the right. — The castelo in Terena (background). **Casa de Terena** is on the left; that is our rental car on the right.