Knowmark Travel

Portugal 2007 (Oct): Lisboa

Saturday, 13 October 2007

Our last travel day, which found us slowly wending our way through the Alentejo from Terena to Lisboa. It was a lovely drive, starting with café e queijada in Alandroal, lunch along the road and a mid-afternoon café in Barrosinha. We arrived in Lisboa shortly after 4pm, got the apartment sorted out and did a little basic shopping (mainly for breakfast tomorrow).

Lunch: We had a picnic at a lovely little spot not too far from Torrão.

Dinner: Frango assado at O Lavrador, which is only 50 metres from our apartment door. A simple, but tasty, meal.

Weather: Because there were a couple of clouds late in the day, we will only give today a 3.0- rating.

Great pastelaria in Alandroal. — Great pastelaria in **Alandroal**.

Our first sighting, Just outside of Torrão on N5. — Our first sighting, Just outside of **Torrão** on N5.

Our view at lunch, very near the Barragem Vale do Gaio. — Our view at lunch, very near the **Barragem Vale do Gaio**.

Sunday, 14 October 2007

We were not overly ambitious on our first full day in Lisboa. But, we usually aren’t! Our main task was to return the rental car, after which we took the Metro down to Chiado, looking for some electronic bit that we wanted at fnac (we love fnac!).

The nice mercado in Campo de Ourique was closed (Sunday), so we did a little shopping at Pingo Doce.

Lunch: A very nice simple lunch at o meu café in Campo de Ourique. Steve had filetes com arroz e salada and Susan had bife atum. We will probably come back here at some point.

Dinner: So-so cabrito assado at Nova Aurora (also in Campo de Ourique). The food service here was pretty fast considering it’s not a fast food joint!

Weather: Another lovely day, but only 2.5 because of a few clouds.

View from our balcony on Calçada da Estrela. — View from our balcony on **Calçada da Estrela**.

Monday, 15 October 2007

Lunch: We set off to an area of Lisboa that we haven’t seen before – Campo Pequeno – to visit a language school that we are thinking of using on our next trip. The lunch that we ate on our way there was probably the worst we’ve ever had in Portugal. We left much of it uneaten and found a café very shortly after that where we shared a savoury pastry with queijo e fiambre (which was very good) with some good café.

Dinner: We were fortunate to spend this evening with our friend Helena and her husband João, who we met for the first time. After sampling an off-dry porto branco with some presunto at the Instituto do Vinho do Porto, we were treated to a wonderful meal at Espaço Lisboa. This restaurant is in a very impressive old building and has quite an atmosphere; also, excellent service. All four of us had the same thing – salada a queijo de cabra to start (amazing – Susan has written down the ingredients in the hope of recreating it at some point!) and very tasty cabrito to follow. We don’t usually have sobremesa, but decided to share the pudim arroz which was excellent. Our hosts had encarchada. Afterwards, João kindly took us on a night time tour of Belém which we enjoyed very much.

Weather: Only a very nice 2.5, due to some cloud cover off and on today.

Fernão de Magalhães in the Praça do Chile. Also known as Ferdinand Magellan. — Fernão de Magalhães in the **Praça do Chile**. Also known as Ferdinand Magellan.

Tuesday, 16 October 2007

We managed to get some laundry done (there is a machine in our apartment – after washing it becomes part of the Lisboan scenery, hanging from our balcony) before going out about 11am for our regular café e pastel. Recently, we have been going to the Beira Tejo in Campo de Ourique. Then, down to the mercado for some essentials for lunch.

After lunch, we hopped on the E28 (electrico) – which stops in front of our door – and rode it all the way to Graça. We had some photographs (prints) that we had taken at O Jaime in April at one of their regular fado nights. Laura (Jaime’s wife) was there, along with one of the fado singers who was performing the night we took the photographs. Luckily, one of the photos was of her! Both of them liked the photographs very much (Jaime was not there).

Lunch: We packed a lunch and walked 200 metres to the beautiful Jardim da Estrela, found a nice secluded, sun-dappled table and enjoyed the early afternoon.

Dinner: Tonight, we discovered a new restaurant right across the street from the Mercado de Campo Ourique. It is called Verde Gaio and appears to be extremely popular with local residents. The atmosphere was great, the service was very pleasant and the food was good enough to go back for. Steve had peixe espada grelhado and Susan had carapaus de escabeche com batatas cozidas. Add some pretty decent vinho tinto de casa and we were happy.

Weather: A perfect 3.0 today – just lovely.

Tin-lined copper fondue pot. There is quite a long story (too long for this description) behind this photograph. — Tin-lined copper fondue pot. There is quite a long story (**too** long for this description) behind this photograph.

Wednesday, 17 October 2007

Today we took the train to Cascais; a one-way ticket is €1,60 … not bad for a 30 minute trip! The route is along the water much of the way and we caught glimpses of some lovely little beaches along the way. Cascais was an interesting spot to visit – there are many lovely buildings and the bay and beaches are very nice.

Lunch: At the Coffee&Pot in Cascais. The bread, wine and salad were ok, but we’ve had better omeletas. However, we weren’t expecting much, either!

Dinner: Back to Verde Gaio tonight where we had another good meal. Good enough to make reservations for tomorrow night (our last in Portugal this trip).

Weather: Another gorgeous day – another 3.0.

An inquisitive peacock in Parque Marechal Carmona. — An inquisitive peacock in **Parque Marechal Carmona**.

Our apartment is in the middle of a construction zone. The three windows on the 1st floor (partly obscured by the excavating machine) are the back of our apartment. The main work (tearing down the surrounding building) has been done, so noise actually isn't an issue. But, it looks pretty dramatic from the rear! The absence of the other building actually is a plus, since we now get a lot more light. — Our apartment is in the middle of a construction zone. The three windows on the 1st floor (partly obscured by the excavating machine) are the back of our apartment. The main work (tearing down the surrounding building) has been done, so noise actually isn’t an issue. But, it looks pretty dramatic from the rear! The absence of the other building actually is a plus, since we now get a lot more light.

Thursday, 18 October 2007

Our last full day in Lisboa and Portugal (we leave at midday on Friday). Our main task was to go to fnac and try to buy a copy of Guia Tascas de Portugal. Unfortunately, they were currently out of stock. However, since we were out, we went to our favourite garrafeira and bought a little port wine for the trip home.

Lunch: Another nice picnic in the Jardim da Estrela.

Dinner: Three nights in a row at Verde Gaio.

Weather: It was fitting that our last full day in Portugal rated a perfect 3.0 – we have had excellent weather for the last nearly three weeks.

Imperador, et al at the nice mercado in Campo de Ourique. — Imperador, et al at the nice *mercado* in **Campo de Ourique**.

Currently, our favourite restaurant in Campo de Ourique. — Currently, our favourite restaurant in **Campo de Ourique**.

Friday, 19 October 2007

Today is our last day in Lisboa (and, Portugal), as we have a mid-day flight back to Toronto.

Weather: We are getting used to this superb weather – another 3.0 to see us away.

Where we start every day (first café). — Where we start every day (first *café*).

Waiting for our departure at the Aeroporto da Portela in Lisboa. — Waiting for our departure at the **Aeroporto da Portela** in Lisboa.

Somewhere high above eastern Canada on our flight home from Lisboa.

Portugal 2007 (Oct): Terena

Tuesday, 9 October 2007

Another travel day as we go from Coalhos to Terena along our customary secondary roads.

Lunch: After packing up at Quinta de Coalhos this morning, we headed to Constância for lunch at Remédia d’Alma where we first ate in April. The owner, Carlos, is a very nice man who has great taste in music and runs a very nice restaurant. The “befores” are very tasty here. We particularly enjoy an Azorean hot sauce with queijo fresco and a kind of paté called pé de terresmo.

Since yesterday was Thanksgiving back home, we had arroz de pato which was as close to turkey as we could get. Our wine was Quinta do Carmo 2001 which was very, very good.

After lunch it was on to Terena.

Dinner: It was a beautiful evening, so we ate in the street (Rua Direita), just outside the door to Casa de Terena, where we are staying. A little pão, queijo e vinho, which is all we needed after lunch today!

Weather: Another gorgeous day; 3.0 again.

Rain lily, on the grounds of Quinta de Coalhos, near Abrantes. We stayed here overnight. — Rain lily, on the grounds of **Quinta de Coalhos**, near Abrantes. We stayed here overnight.

Wednesday, 10 October 2007

Quarta-feira (Wednesday) is market day in Vila Viçosa, so we headed there to get some essentials. It’s only about 20 minutes from Terena (north on N255) . After lunch in Alandroal, we drove and hiked to one of the many antas in the area. It was a great experience, partly because of the very helpful goatherds and their beautiful goats that we met both going to and returning from the anta.

Lunch: We re-visited a favourite restaurant in this area: Arco Íris in Alandroal. Steve had língua estufada and Susan, lombinhos grelhados – both were very good.

Dinner: Another picnic supper at Casa de Terena with some local cheese, meat, vegetables and wine … delicious!

Weather: What glorious weather; a perfect 3.0 again.

Ruins at Ciladas, about half-way between Vila Viçosa and Elvas. — Ruins at Ciladas, about half-way between **Vila Viçosa** and **Elvas**.

It is either the Pão Mole anta or the Galvões anta. — It is either the **Pão Mole** anta or the **Galvões** anta.

These are beautiful goats (about 200 of them!) - the goatherd told us that they were the serpentina breed. Near Mina do Bogalho. — These are beautiful goats (about 200 of them!) – the goatherd told us that they were the *serpentina* breed. Near **Mina do Bogalho**.

Thursday, 11 October 2007

Lunch: We had a nice light lunch at A Moira, just outside of Reguengos (north) on N255. We each had an omeleta de camaroes, accompanied by a salada mista.

Dinner: Tonight’s dinner was special … family style at Casa de Terena. We started with a yummy spinach and lentil soup, garnished with presunto. The main dish was an absolutely delicious Mozambican chicken and rice dish with olives. There was also some zucchini with walnuts and a tasty salad. Great meal!

Weather: 3.0 – just lovely.

Looking south from our balcony on Rua Direita. — Looking south from our balcony on **Rua Direita**.

Friday, 12 October 2007

There is a small (very small!) market in Vila Viçosa on Friday, which we attended for some vegetables. Unfortunately, the queijo stands were absent. However, there is a very good pastelaria there (Casa Azul) where we stopped for our late morning café e bolo – the local queijada was delicious.

Lunch: We explored Borba on either side of the noon hour and ended up for almoço at A Talha a restaurant recommended to us by Jeremy when we were here in April. We didn’t make it then, but are very glad that we did this time. Steve had cuchaço de porco preto no forno com esparregado. Susan had bochechas de porco preto com pimentos. Both meals were very good.

Dinner: This is our last night at Casa de Terena (this visit) and we had dinner ‘in’. Nice pão, queijo, azeitanos e vinho (plus tomato and cucumber), all from this region (Alentejano).

Weather: Another beautiful day – another 3.0.

Across from Casa de Terena. Concept by Susan · photograph by Steve.

Portugal 2007 (Oct): Coimbra

Friday, 5 October 2007

We spent a great deal of time just wandering around Coimbra today, both the Old City (upper) and elsewhere. As is often the case in Portugal, there are a lot of hills involved!

Lunch: We ate ‘out’ on one of the many benches in the well-kept median of the Avenida Sá da Bandeira.

Dinner: We wanted to return to the place we dined last night but it was closed for today’s holiday, Implantação da República. We found a place not too far from our hotel called Restaurante Giro which provided us with a good dinner: carapau for Steve and an amazing açorda de camarões for Susan.

Weather: The weather was a lovely 2.5+ today, with only some occasional clouds.

On the streets of Coimbra, just off Rua do Brasil. — On the streets of Coimbra, just off **Rua do Brasil**.

Elevador e funicular. Saves a lot of climbing! — Elevador e funicular. Saves a **lot** of climbing!

Exploring limits on the steps of the Igreja de São Tiago. — Exploring limits on the steps of the **Igreja de São Tiago**.

Waiting for the o Basó ias. — Waiting for the **o Basó ias**.

The "o Basó ias" [un]loading. — The “o Basó ias” [un]loading.

Saturday, 6 October 2007

Lunch: We travelled across the Rio Mondego (south side) for a picnic on the grounds of Quinta das Lágrimas. Lovely place, very peaceful.

Dinner: Back to O Cantinho dos Reis for a dinner of cherne grelhado which was very tasty. It was served with boiled potatoes and a salad and of course we had some vinho tinto de casa. Dessert was the usual port and chocolate back at our hotel.

Weather: Beautiful day – a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale.

Our pastelaria of choice in Coimbra. Great pasteis de nata here (on Avenida Sá da Bandeira). The people aren't waiting to get in - it's a bus stop. — Our pastelaria of choice in Coimbra. Great *pasteis de nata* here (on **Avenida Sá da Bandeira**). The people aren’t waiting to get in – it’s a bus stop.

Fun with shadows. On Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes. — Fun with shadows. On **Rua Olímpio Nicolau Rui Fernandes**.

On the grounds of Quinta das Lágrimas. Our view at lunch. — On the grounds of **Quinta das Lágrimas**. Our view at lunch.

On the grounds of Quinta das Lágrimas. Unusual submerged pots with lily pads planted in them. — On the grounds of **Quinta das Lágrimas**. Unusual submerged pots with lily pads planted in them.

Our home in Coimbra. This is shot from our balcony. The staff here are very nice. — Our home in Coimbra. This is shot from our balcony. The staff here are **very** nice.

Sunday, 7 October 2007

Lunch: We climbed (with the car) high into the Serra de Buçaco, specifically in the Buçaco National Forest for lunch (the usual picnic) today. It is a beautiful area.

Dinner: Dinner this evening was in a mall (yes you heard right!) attached to the Estadio Cidade Coimbra where we were attending the football match later. The restaurant was called Siga de Vaca and we had a very good meal of lombo de frango grelhado which came with nicely grilled bacon and espinafras.

Weather: Another lovely day, marred only by a few clouds. So, 2.5+.

Lunch companion. In the Buçaco National Wood. — Lunch companion. In the **Buçaco National Wood**.

FC Porto at Buçaco. We went to visit the magnificent grounds around the Palace Hotel do Buçaco, and found this bus! Apparently, the team stays here when they play Académica (9:15pm kick-off tonight). — FC Porto at Buçaco. We went to visit the magnificent grounds around the **Palace Hotel do Buçaco**, and found this bus! Apparently, the team stays here when they play **Académica** (9:15pm kick-off tonight).

Everyone wanted to be photographed next to the bus.

On our way into the stadium for the match, we spotted the FC Porto bus again, so we had to take another photograph to go with the ones from earlier in the day. — On our way into the stadium for the match, we spotted the **FC Porto** bus again, so we had to take another photograph to go with the ones from earlier in the day.

Discussing the penalty. The penalty resulted in the only goal of the match: 0-1 Académica-Porto.

Monday, 8 October 2007

Today was a travel day, as we left Coimbra after our first visit there. We enjoyed the city and surrounding area quite a lot. The initial part of our drive was very scenic, from Coimbra to Panela on N110-3 and N110.

Lunch: We picnic’d at a lovely spot on N237, just west of Aldeia de Ana de Avis.

Dinner: We have eaten at O Cabaço during our two previous visits to Portugal and never been disappointed. Nor were we this time: Steve had arroz de polvo and Susan had porco alentejano. We didn’t recognize the wine we ordered (that’s why we ordered it) but the owner Senhor Luiz not only remembered us, but remembered that it was the same wine we ordered last time we were there in April!

Weather: Another perfect 3.0.

Steve at the centro geodésico de Portugal.