Category: Portugal

Portugal 2007 (Apr): Lisboa

Monday, 2 April 2007

We arrived quite early this morning (about 7am) after an uneventful flight on SATA from Toronto. The broker for our apartment (Mary Goudie) met us at the apartment just after 8:30am. We were able to drop our luggage and have a brief look around, but couldn’t really take ‘possession’ until about noon. Mary showed us a few places of interest in the neighbourhood (Estrela), including a very nice place just up the street (Doce Estrela) where we shared a café.

After Mary took her leave, we spent some time orienting ourselves, then back to the apartment, and finally some lunch at O Lavrador (which is just metres from our door). We had wonderful frango, the famous grilled chicken of Portugal. It was the best that we had ever had. Finally, a late afternoon siesta (which went a long way to sorting out the time difference) and then dinner at (unknown restaurant, which we will update!), sharing a pork dish with mushroom sauce. And, a fairly early night.

The weather today was not great – only 1.5 on the Knowmark Weather Scale. There was rain off and on, plus it was fairly cool.

Waiting for our luggage with two of our travelling companions.

The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the Invasões Francesas. — The Duke of Wellington, who led British forces during the **Invasões Francesas**.

Tuesday, 3 April 2007

After our first night in Lisboa, we quickly established a routine: out for café (uma bica for Susan – uma bica pingada for Steve) at Doce Estrela; back to the apartment for breakfast (yogurt – fresh fruit – bread); up the hill to the Mercado de Campo de Ourique for various foodstuffs; across the street from the market to a belha d’ouro for another café accompanied by the wonderful pasteis de nata (which are excellent at this pastelaria!).

Today’s major task was to travel (on the excellent transit system in Lisboa) to the Instituto Geográfico do Exército in northeast Lisboa for some maps that we will use later on this trip when we rent a car and leave Lisboa. They were very nice at the Instituto and we bought what looks to be an excellent 1:250,000 scale map of the entire country (in easy-to-use book form).

This pursuit was actually our second map-seeking expedition here. On Monday, while we were waiting for our apartment to be available, we walked to the Instituto Geográfico Português, where we got a few topographical maps (1:50,000 scale) of a couple of the places we’ll be staying later on this visit. Steve (aka map boy) had been corresponding with a very nice man at the IGP (João Carvalho), so we knew they had some maps that we would find useful. And, they look great.

The weather is improving – a solid 2.0 today.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga). — Looking ESE **down** Calçada da Estrela (at Rua Doutor Teófilo Braga).

These three had a very long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph). — These three had a **very** long conversation in the Jardim da Estrela. The dog was pleased to find a distraction, courtesy of the little child (previous photograph).

This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the Jardim da Estrela. — This pair provided a welcome distraction for the dog (previous photograph) in the **Jardim da Estrela**.

Some of the fish vendors at the Mercado de Campo de Orique.

A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over Calçada da Estrela. — A typical Knowmark al fresco luncheon, which we had today in the midday sun on our [narrow] balcony hanging over **Calçada da Estrela**.

Susan, reflected in a window across Calçada da Estrela. — Susan, reflected in a window across **Calçada da Estrela**.

Right across the street from our apartment. Very nice people there.

We travelled a long way so Steve could buy some more maps!

Wednesday, 4 April 2007

Slight modification to our morning routine today – instead of foraging for lunch ingredients, we were after things for dinner. As part of our meal planning, we paid a visit to the Garrafeira Campo De Ourique where on Monday we met a nice young man who was born in Toronto!

Lunch was at the nearby O Correio: shrimp omelette for Susan, grilled salmon for Steve. After lunch we spent some more time in the Jardim da Estrela as the afternoon was sunny and warmer. Later we went further north in the city to the Fundaçao Calouste Gulbenkian where there is a very well-thought-of museum; but we were there quite late and just wandered the grounds where we saw many lovely flowers and assorted fauna: a turtle sunning itself, lots of very noisy frogs and some ducks, including some babies.

Dinner was in our own place – take out frango assado from O Lavador (it really is great chicken) with home cooked baked potatoes and green beans accompanied by a nice Ribatejano wine; and of course, later we had port and chocolate!

A very nice 2.0+ on the Knowmark Weather Scale today.

There is a very nice daily market here in the mornings. We get most of our foodstuffs here.

Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of Campo de Ourique. — Santo Condestável, on the southern edge of **Campo de Ourique**.

They make excellent pasteis de nata here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second café, accompanied by the wonderful pasteis. — They make excellent *pasteis de nata* here. So, after our morning shopping at the mercado (just across the street), we stop here and have our second *café*, accompanied by the wonderful *pasteis*.

Garrafeira Campo de Ourique. Inside a very nice wine shop at Rua Tomás de Anuncicão, 29-A.

A common sight in the Jardim de Estrela. — A common sight in the **Jardim de Estrela**.

The dogs were just about as big as the kids "walking" them in the Jardim de Estrela (which is formally known as the Jardim Guerra Junqueiro — The dogs were just about as big as the kids “walking” them in the **Jardim de Estrela** (which is formally known as the **Jardim Guerra Junqueiro**

Taking the afternoon sun in the Jardim da Estrela — Taking the afternoon sun in the **Jardim da Estrela**

We often caught this autocarro (No. 9) to Largo do Rato, where we got on the Metro (Linha Amarela). — We often caught this *autocarro* (No. 9) to **Largo do Rato**, where we got on the Metro (**Linha Amarela**).

A popular spot for people to congregate at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

One of several sculptures around the grounds at the Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian.

Thursday, 5 April 2007

Today’s main event (and, we usually only manage to do one thing a day, because we are very slow travellers!) was to have lunch with our Lisboan friend, Helena. We met her last year through The Travelzine and spent a very nice evening with her when we visited Lisboa in May, 2006.

Today we met Helena in Graça for an aperitivo at the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça and then lunch at O Jaime. From the miradouro, we could easily see the Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying.

A lovely day today – 2.5 on our scale.

Inside "a abelha d'ouro". — Inside “a abelha d’ouro”.

This is a view from the miradouro beside the Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça. The Basilica da Estrela (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner. — This is a view from the miradouro beside the **Convento Nossa Senhora da Graça**. The **Basilica da Estrela** (about 3km away), which is very near where we are staying, can be seen in the upper right corner.

Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our apertivos. — Steve makes some remark to the photographer, while the ever elegant Helena prepares to pay for our *apertivos*.

Friday, 6 April 2007

Today was a perfect 3.0 on the Knowmark Weather Scale: a very blue Lisboan sky, lots of sun and very comfortable temperatures. In the morning, we checked out the place where we will pick up our rental car on Sunday then walked most of the way back to our place. After a lovely picnic lunch in our local jardim, we paid a visit to the Jardim Botânico which was quite empty of visitors.

Tonight’s special dinner was at XL, a very good restaurant within walking distance of our apartment, and apparently named after the size of the chef/owner.

Part of the Basilica da Estrela against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky. — Part of the **Basilica da Estrela** against the beautiful blue Lisboan sky.

On the #28 tram in Campo de Ourique. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror. — On the #28 tram in **Campo de Ourique**. Note the photographer reflected in the small mirror.

This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (rotunda) on the edge of Jardim da Estrela. We're not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio. — This statue at the south end of Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral is in the middle of a traffic circle (*rotunda*) on the edge of **Jardim da Estrela**. We’re not sure who the figure is, although it might be José Bonifácio.

We had two great meals here (frango), once for lunch and once para fora (take-out). — We had two great meals here (*frango*), once for lunch and once *para fora* (take-out).

Old friends taking the sun in Jardim da Estrela. — Old friends taking the sun in **Jardim da Estrela**.

This statue of Guerra Junqueiro is in the centre of the Jardim de Estrela. — This statue of **Guerra Junqueiro** is in the centre of the **Jardim de Estrela**.

Finishing lunch in the lovely Jardim da Estrela. — Finishing lunch in the lovely **Jardim da Estrela**.

Susan channelling her inner panda at the Jardim Botánico. — Susan channelling her inner panda at the **Jardim Botánico**.

Official birthday photograph in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. — Official birthday photograph in our apartment in **Estrela** just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in Estrela just before leaving for dinner at XL. — Official birthday photograph (2) in our apartment in **Estrela** just before leaving for dinner at XL.

Susan's birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL. — Susan’s birthday wine. Quite a nice wine we had for dinner at XL.

At XL, after dinner. We had finished a very nice meal and were getting ready to walk back up the hill to our apartment.

Saturday, 7 April 2007

Our last full day in Lisboa found us spending a leisurely day (what else?). We took full advantage of the sunshine (a very nice 2.5 today) to do some laundry. And, then a very interesting, enjoyable experience with fado in the afternoon in Graça.

Looking ESE down Calçada da Estrela, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor). — Looking ESE down **Calçada da Estrela**, with our apartment in the middle (3rd floor).

From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window - door - door - window. — From across the street. Note the laundrey poking out from the first door. We had the entire floor: window – door – door – window.

The eléctrico (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment. — The *eléctrico* (#28) speeding down the hill in front of our apartment.

Portugal 2006: Porto

Tuesday, 30 May 2006

We are reluctantly leaving the Pinhão area today for our last stop in Portugal – five days in Porto. The unseasonably hot weather that we have experienced for the last four days seems to have ‘broken’ – it is a very nice morning here.

After a pleasant drive from Pinhão, we are safely ensconced at the very nice Hotel Eurostars Das Artes in Porto. We had a rather longish orientation walk (about two hours); bought a few supplies; scouted a likely spot for morning café; checked out a couple of restaurants for dinner. We made a good choice for dinner and had a nice meal of frango no churrasco just down the street from our hotel, which is so very convenient!

And, after the few days of uncomfortably hot weather, we had a perfect day (3.0) on the weather front.

Wednesday, 31 May 2006

Today was our first full day in Porto and most of it was spent just wandering around. It’s great to be able to get a lot of walking in again after the heat wave in the Douro. We started by visiting the posto do turismo to buy transit passes and get some general transportation information, as we would like to take a side trip or two while here.

Lunch was our usual picnic in a very lovely park, Palácio de Cristal. The spot we chose had a great view of the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia which is just across the Douro. From where we sat we could see Taylor’s, Dow’s, and Croft. After lunch we wandered around some more. Our tendency to slow travel seems to be improving – we’re getting slower all the time!

Someone else who stayed at the same hotel we are in, and reviewed it for TripAdvisor, mentioned that they had eaten at O Assador Típico and recommended it highly, so that’s where we ate this evening. We were not disappointed. We shared an excellent arroz de marisco washed down with two half bottles of vinho de casa – a vinho verde (mostly consumed by Susan) and a tinto (mostly consumed by Steve). In addition to the wonderful meal, the service was excellent and since the restaurant is very convenient to our hotel, we will eat there again before we leave.

Another absolutely gorgeous day – 3.0 on our scale.

Thursday, 1 June 2006

Several weeks ago we had decided to travel to Braga from Porto by train while we were staying in Porto. Our research had indicated that this would be relatively inexpensive and fairly straightforward. The research was right on both counts.

The express train from Porto only took 45 minutes and went through some interesting countryside. And, the total cost (round trip for two) was 7,60€. Braga itself was somewhat different than we had expected. But, the most important thing was that one of the semi-finals of the UEFA Under21 competition was being held that afternoon (France vs the Netherlands). So, since the price was right, we decided to go to the game! Actually, we could only attend the first half because of connection times back to Porto, but it was scintillating action in the initial 45 minutes, with the Netherlands leading 2-0 at the break. The second Dutch goal, by Klaas Jan Huntelaar, was particularly impressive.

The second half (which happened as we travelled back to Porto) saw France mount a comeback and even the match at 2-2, which forced extra time. But, the Netherlands eventually prevailed 3-2. Great game! And, the stadium is a beautiful facility.

We had a so-so lunch (actually, it was quite boring) in Braga at the Café Vianna prior to the match. And, dinner was at O Assador Típico for the second night running, which was first-rate once again.

Friday, 2 June 2006

Today was a very busy day. We started off by walking down to the closest metro station and taking the subway to the south side of the Douro. Interestingly, just before the bridge across the river, the subway train emerges from underground and becomes a tram. We had noticed previously that the subway trains looked exactly like the trams in Bordeaux and now we know why. The tram crosses on the upper level of the Ponte Don Luiz I which is the most famous bridge of Porto, inaugurated in 1886. There are several interesting bridges crossing the Douro at Porto including the Ponte Maria, designed by Eiffel, and the Ponte Arrábida which is an interesting concrete structure to the west.

After wandering around the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river, we walked back over the bridge and explored the Ribeira area. Behind the colourful buildings right on the river is a maze of twisty little streets, alleys and staircases in which we almost managed to get lost. Eventually working our way out we refreshed ourselves with café and pasteis – we’re going to miss that habit.

Next up was a tram and bus ride out to Foz do Douro which is where the river Douro meets the Atlantic Ocean. By then it was time for lunch and we found a small place where we had a very tasty version of fish (filetes de pescada) and chips, accompanied by the almost inevitable arroz and of course some wine.

After lunch we walked down on the beach to dip our toes in the Atlantic from the eastern side (a first for both of us). The beach looked quite sandy from a distance but proved to be very coarse sand and hard walking (at least for Susan’s tender toes).

Susan decided that she wanted a feed of amêijoas so we had dinner tonight at Gambamar, a marisqueira not too far from the hotel. She had amêijoas á Bulhão Pato which served the purpose nicely while Steve had caldo verde followed by a tortilha de marisco.

Another absolutely gorgeous day – 3.0 on our scale.

Saturday, 3 June 2006

Our last full day in Portugal took us to Parque Serralves, a beautiful converted estate in western Porto (north of Foz). Our Travelzine friend, Helena, had alerted us to a special display of Art Deco furnishings at Casa Serralves (itself an Art Deco structure), which is what drew us to the park in the first place.

Coincidentally, it was Serralves em Festa! this week-end, so admission to everything was free (nice bonus). The Art Deco display was wonderful (we are both fans) and the house was stunning. We had packed our ‘standard’ lunch, so after touring Casa Serralves, we found a spot to picnic and then spent considerable time just strolling through the estate grounds.

For our last dinner here we returned to O Assadoro Típico, where we had another great meal: frango no churrasco for Steve; picanha for Susan. We had tried both dishes previously in Portugal – these were the best versions.

It actually got a little too warm for a while in the afternoon, so only 2.5+ on our scale.

Sunday, 4 June 2006

Today we bid a very fond farewell to Portugal after three wonderful weeks here. Our last morning started, as usual, with café (bica for Susan; pingo for Steve) at Campo Pequeno. As we pay for our café (0,50€) we also purchase two fresh pãozinhos (0,10€ each, which are baked upstairs) that we eat for breakfast in our room along with yogurt and fresh fruit (usually cherries). Total cost for a very yummy breakfast (including coffee): about 1,25€. Our hotel is very nice, but breakfast is not included, and they charge 9,00€. Plus, by going out, we get excellent fresh café, which you seldom find in a hotel.

Speaking of food, may we take the opportunity to recommend the Knowmark Portuguese Travel Diet. Collectively, we lost five pounds (2.2kg) in the last three weeks. See earlier posts for meal ideas and wine choices 🙂

Portugal 2006: Pinhão

Friday, 26 May 2006

We are having a late morning at the Estalagem de Santa Bárbara, partly because it is so lovely and tranquil here. After a café at the Pastelaria Primavera (our favourite pastelaria in Oliveira do Hospital), we are heading north to Pinhão in the Douro valley. We are expecting some rather warm weather and our connectivity will probably be spotty during our four days there.

Our arrival in Pinhão was rather different. After an amazing drive along the Douro and our first glimpses of the vineyards, we arrived near the town only to be faced by a long line of cars stopped in front of us. It turns out that the bridge is under repair and the only way over the river is by ferry. We subsequently found out that the ferry only runs at certain times of the day and it had just started running again as we arrived. It took us 40 minutes or so before we finally arrived at the other side and 3 minutes later we were at Quinta de la Rosa.

Our room is actually a two room suite and feels like a little house. It seems to be very old, is remarkably cool inside (without the assistance of air conditioning) and has one bathroom wall which is mostly carved out of rock.

Dinner was in Pinhão at Pensão Ponto Grande where we shared a dish of roasted pork which had been marinated in vinho tinto for two days before cooking. It was accompanied by cabbage and some good tomato rice with chickpeas. The wine was a 2003 Vinho Comprida from Quinta da Poça which is just up the road from La Rosa. The very nice owner told us he would be making cabrito with tomatoes and peppers tomorrow, so we will return for dinner on Saturday.

The weather is heating up, so only 2.5 today on the Knowmark Weather Scale.

Saturday, 27 May 2006

The Quinta de la Rosa is a lovely estate and we were reluctant to actually leave this morning. Especially since it was cool for several hours this morning (during this unseasonable heat wave). So we took our time – which is not unusual – and finally went into Pinhão for some supplies, et al. After some initial exploration, we found a very nice pastelaria (see photograph below) for our late morning café e pasteis. We also found some wonderful regional cheese and olives, plus carrots (and some so-so bread) for lunch later.

We then set out on an incredible (incrível) journey north up the Rio Pinhão valley to Alijó (on the east side of the valley). Coming back, we crossed the Pinhão to Sabrosa (which required going waaay down and then waaay back up) and returned to Pinhão on the west side of the valley. The scenery is simply spectacular – there is no other way to describe it. We don’t have the proper camera to capture what this looks like. The terraced vineyards are everywhere, built over many centuries.

We went back to Restaurante Residêncial Ponto Grande tonight where we had the cabrito with tomatoes, onions and peppers that the owner, Senhor José Vieira kindly promised us yesterday. It was very good, especially the potatoes which seemed to have been cooked with them (see photo below). There was a simple but tasty salad and some plain rice which went very well with the meal. As wine, we chose the 2001 Vinha de Mazouco which was fine but not as good as the Quinta da Poça that we drank last night.

Since the weather is uncomfortably hot, today only rated a 2.0 (zero points for temperature).

Sunday, 28 May 2006

Today seemed to be a bit less hot than yesterday (at least to Susan) but it was still quite uncomfortable. Unfortunately, we’re not doing much walking because of the heat, but we’re eating just as much! Hopefully things will cool off enough while we’re in Porto to work off some of this food.

There is apparently marvellous scenery along the Rio Tua, one of many tributaries of the Douro. Many people take the train from Pinhão to Tua and then switch to the narrow-gauge train which runs along the Tua to Mirandela. We thought about taking it, but for a variety of reasons decided not to check it out today. Instead we drove to Alijó again, but by a different, indirect route, starting with the ferry across Douro.

UP. We drove up and up (there’s a lot of that here!) on N222 to São João da Pesqueira. On the way, we stopped at the Padaria Lusitana in Ervedosa do Douro and bought some bread.

DOWN. Then we went down and down (see previous parentheses) and crossed the Douro at the Barragem de Valeira.

UP. Once again, up and up, through Linhares (which seemed very historical) to Parambos, all of this on N214.

DOWN. This time, down and down (now on N212) led to the confluence of the Tua and the Douro, in Tua. We could see where the narrow-gauge railway to Mirandela starts, and a bit of the gorge which forms the very dramatic scenery at the start. The part that we could see was very different scenery- even steeper mountains and very rocky and wild with no olive trees and vines as we see almost everywhere else.

UP. Our second trip to Alijó in two days, this time via São Mamede da Ribatua where the landscape levels off for a bit. Still, every bit of land seems to be covered with vines.

UP. A bit more until the landscape flattened out again for quite a while in to Alijó where we had lunch in a shaded spot in a nice park. It is cooler in Alijó due to the higher altitude. It didn’t take us as long to get there as we had expected and so we ate lunch a bit earlier than usual, however it was the same old lunch – mmmm: wine, cheese, bread (better than we’ve been eating so far in this area), carrots and olives.

DOWN. The drive down from Alijó was via the same route (N323) that we took up there yesterday – but it is certainly not a hardship driving that route again. And, it looks a little different going the opposite direction. The views are spectacular; we just can’t get over how much of this really rugged landscape has been turned into land for growing grapes and olives … it is immense!

Again due to the heat, today only rated a 2.0, however Susan is angling for a 2.0+.

Monday, 29 May 2006

Our last full day in the Pinhão region found us once again somewhat limited by the heat. It just means that we don’t spend as much time stopping in various places and walking about. But, we managed to do quite a bit. We did the ‘formal’ tour (week days at 11am) of Quinta de la Rosa, which was quite interesting, followed by a wine and port tasting. Of special interest was trying the 1998 LBV Port, since we wanted to buy one more bottle of port for nightcaps. However, we also tried the 1992 LBV bottle-aged Port and decided to buy that instead, as it was quite unusual.

Then, we drove to Régua (about 30 minutes away), because we had heard about a Douro wine shop there. However, there wasn’t much there that was of interest to us, although we did buy a bottle of 2004 Quinta do Monte Travesso. We also had a relatively nondescript lunch before slowly working our way back to Pinhão. It is beautiful country here – it is quite stunning. We also drove up the Rio Torto valley to Ervedosa do Douro just to buy some bread at the Padaria Lusitana, where we had found some excellent bread yesterday (hot out of the oven at 5pm). Since we were ‘eating in’ on our last night here, we needed to have some first-rate pão!

Another very hot day, so only a 2.0 again; however, the evening turned out to be very pleasant.